Basic Weave Structures:
The manner in which groups of warp yarns are raised by the harness to permit the insertion of the filling yarn determines the pattern of the weave, and in large measure the kind of fabric produced. Weave patterns can create varying degrees of durability in fabrics, adding to their usefulness and also to their appearnance
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There are three basic weaves. They are plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. All other weaves are a variation or a combination of these weaves. Basket weave and Rib weave are two variations of plain weave. In the same manner twill weave can also have number of variations, e.g., warp faced twill, weft faced twill, even twill, uneven twill, pointed twill, herring bone twill, gabardine, corkscrew and so on.
Graph paper (or pointed paper) is used to show the weaves or the order in which the yarns interlace in a fabric. It is used by textile designers to portray their designs or to analyse fabric weaves. Each vertical row of squares represents a warp yarn and each horizontal row of squares represents a filling yarn. A warp yarn crossing over a fillings
usually shown by marking in the square called a ‘raiser’. A blank square over the warp called ‘sinker’.
The weave diagram does not show the number of yarns per inch between warp and filling. The yarn size and type are also not indicated. The completed design shows the interlacing from the face side of the cloth. Most weaves are analysed from the face side.
a. Plain weave: A plain weave is a weave where each filling passes alternately over and under each warp in a square pattern. The interlacing is opposite in neighbouring cells.
The repeat is over two ends and two picks.
Properties of Plain weave: 1. Both sides are reversible until fabric is painted or printed from right side. 2. Fabrics have high abrasion resistance. 3. No yarn slippage. 4. There is no distinct design unless yarns have contrasting colors or thickness. 5. Easily produced; maximum yardage; inexpensive. Medium to dull lusture. 6. Adaptable for printing and other finishing process. 7. More durable. No floats. Medium drapability to very good drapability. 8. In old notation method, denoted by ‘P’. Examples: Batiste, Cheese cloth, Cretonne, Percale, voile.
b. Satin weave: A satin weave is a weave where four (or more) shaft with warp floats in interrupted diagonal. Interlacings are never adjacent to one another. Satin repeat over altest 5 ends and 5 picks but the warp ends interlace only once per repeat.
Properties of Satin weave: 1. Right and wrong sides look quite different. 2. Very low abrasion resistance. 3. It has interrupted diagonal discernible with magnifying glass. 4. It is more expensive. Excellent lusture. 5. Less durable. 6. Excellent Drapability. 7. Denoted by ‘S’. Examples: Satin, Slipper satin, Creepe back
.
There are three basic weaves. They are plain weave, twill weave and satin weave. All other weaves are a variation or a combination of these weaves. Basket weave and Rib weave are two variations of plain weave. In the same manner twill weave can also have number of variations, e.g., warp faced twill, weft faced twill, even twill, uneven twill, pointed twill, herring bone twill, gabardine, corkscrew and so on.
Graph paper (or pointed paper) is used to show the weaves or the order in which the yarns interlace in a fabric. It is used by textile designers to portray their designs or to analyse fabric weaves. Each vertical row of squares represents a warp yarn and each horizontal row of squares represents a filling yarn. A warp yarn crossing over a fillings
usually shown by marking in the square called a ‘raiser’. A blank square over the warp called ‘sinker’.
The weave diagram does not show the number of yarns per inch between warp and filling. The yarn size and type are also not indicated. The completed design shows the interlacing from the face side of the cloth. Most weaves are analysed from the face side.
a. Plain weave: A plain weave is a weave where each filling passes alternately over and under each warp in a square pattern. The interlacing is opposite in neighbouring cells.
The repeat is over two ends and two picks.
Properties of Plain weave: 1. Both sides are reversible until fabric is painted or printed from right side. 2. Fabrics have high abrasion resistance. 3. No yarn slippage. 4. There is no distinct design unless yarns have contrasting colors or thickness. 5. Easily produced; maximum yardage; inexpensive. Medium to dull lusture. 6. Adaptable for printing and other finishing process. 7. More durable. No floats. Medium drapability to very good drapability. 8. In old notation method, denoted by ‘P’. Examples: Batiste, Cheese cloth, Cretonne, Percale, voile.
b. Satin weave: A satin weave is a weave where four (or more) shaft with warp floats in interrupted diagonal. Interlacings are never adjacent to one another. Satin repeat over altest 5 ends and 5 picks but the warp ends interlace only once per repeat.
Properties of Satin weave: 1. Right and wrong sides look quite different. 2. Very low abrasion resistance. 3. It has interrupted diagonal discernible with magnifying glass. 4. It is more expensive. Excellent lusture. 5. Less durable. 6. Excellent Drapability. 7. Denoted by ‘S’. Examples: Satin, Slipper satin, Creepe back
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